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I have just entered the women’s hammam, the public baths in the mediaeval walled Medina of Fez, and something tells me it’s not going to be relaxing.In the main hall, another 30 or 40 naked and glistening women are going through their beauty routines.

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“To the best Mum in the world…” You craved these scraps of affection, so we tossed them at you, grudgingly like we did everything you clamoured for. It’s our favourite walk, almost free of cars or people, I can let him loose to nose-surf along the grassy banks as we wind up towards the church grounds along the wide path striped with sun and shade. And his person and I watched and laughed, in the fresh sunshine. This is my home and these are my people, even if they don’t know it.

Eds met a new puppy and mounted him enthusiastically several times. As I pass the terrace of Café Israel, I catch Carmen’s eye.

Some of them bathe alone, others take turns dashing water from sagging plastic buckets at each other. The hammam space is large but contains no showers or shelves, towels or mirrors, nowhere to sit except the floor.

When the big buckets of water are empty, bathers refill them at the hot or cold taps either side of an adjoining room. As I study the green tiled walls with intense interest, a big dark-haired woman with breasts like boulders reaches up from her cross-legged position and pulls me down to join her on the slimy floor, arranging me face up, everything up. Rashida is chief tayeba, or bather, and biggest fish in the steamy shallows of the hammam.

She’s with her young neighbour or helper, and beckons me over for coffee.

Carmen, chain-smoking, small and frail, with her sad clown face.

I travel surprisingly quickly towards the rest of my group.

Back outside in the changing area, these once intrepid, assertive women travellers wait passively for towels and the return of our clothes.

One old dark-skinned woman flashes me a gold-toothed grin, and offers me five million francs if I will marry her son.

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